Fashion Commons: A Cap-and-Share Model to Tackle the Fashion Industry’s Overproduction Crisis
Clara Tomé - Cap & Share Policy Competition Winner
We’re excited to announce Clara Tomé as the winner of our Cap & Share Policy Competition! Her innovative proposal addresses fast fashion’s biggest challenges; overproduction, textile waste, and fossil fuel dependence. Read on to hear about Clara’s vision, in her own words.
Fashion Commons: A Cap and Share Proposal
After working in the fashion industry as a model for over eight years, I often found myself drowning in an endless rotation of garments - wearing hundreds of outfits everyday. Amidst the glamour and the constant reinvention, I started questioning: What happens to all these clothes once they’re no longer needed? Who is paying the real price for this excess?
At the same time, I decided to educate myself about the current climate crisis and what I found was unsettling: an industry responsible for 10% of global CO₂ emissions, the overproduction of more than 100 billion garments annually, and a waste crisis that disproportionately burdens ecosystems and communities, especially global south countries. This led me to pursue a Master’s in Environmental Law, work at theUnited Nations on sustainable fashion communications, attend global climate conferences, become an activist, and explore the world to witness firsthand the environmental and social costs of the capitalist system.
Now, as an expert in environmental law and policy, and a dedicated advocate for climate justice, I have come to a fundamental realization: the biggest problem in fashion is the one we refuse to talk about—overproduction. For too long, conversations around sustainable fashion have focused on consumer choices, recycling, and alternative materials and although these solutions are valuable, they fail to address the root cause of the industry’s environmental destruction: the relentless overproduction of cheap, fossil-fuel-based garments.
Clara with her Cap & Share proposal: Fashion Commons
A Polluting Industry
Fashion is one of the most polluting industries on the planet, responsible for 10% of global CO2 emissions and 35% of microplastic pollution in our oceans.(1) The production of synthetic fibers alone accounts for 1.35% of global oil consumption—342 million barrels of oil annually—making the industry deeply dependent on fossil fuels.(2) Over 60% of garments are made from polyester, an oil-derived fiber that fuels both emissions and plastic pollution.(3) More production means more oil and gas extraction, more waste, and more harm to communities already bearing the brunt of the climate crisis.
This is why we need a cap on production. Without addressing the sheer volume of garments produced each year, no amount of recycling or material innovation will be enough to curb fashion’s environmental footprint. The Fashion Commons Policy proposes a Cap and Share model, designed to reduce overproduction, cut emissions, and reinvest in climate justice.
Under this system, garment production volumes would be capped based on company size, revenue, and reliance on fossil fuels. Large corporations, particularly fast fashion giants like Shein, H&M, and Zara, would face stricter limits, while brands prioritizing biodegradable materials and ethical production would receive incentives. This directly targets the core drivers of emissions and textile waste, ensuring that production is aligned with planetary boundaries.
Clara’s proposal: Fashion Commons
Beyond limiting production, the Fashion Commons Policy also redistributes funds for climate justice. Companies exceeding their production caps would pay fines, and these funds would be allocated to initiatives that support communities disproportionately affected by fashion’s environmental toll. This includes:
1. Regenerative agriculture: Supporting sustainable cotton farming and natural fiber production in Africa and India, reducing dependence on fossil-fuel-based materials and promoting soil health.
2. Waste management innovation: Funding recycling hubs in countries like Ghana and Indonesia, where textile waste has become an overwhelming crisis.
3. Research and development of biodegradable materials: Accelerating the
transition away from polyester and other synthetic fibers, investing in alternatives like pineapple fibers in the Philippines.
4. A Universal Basic Income for garment workers.
To illustrate this model in practice, imagine that Shein, a company notorious for its ultra-fast production cycles is capped at 80% of its current production volume. If it exceeds this limit by manufacturing 100 million garments instead of 80 million, it would pay a fee for the 20 million excess items. At a rate of $1 per excess garment, this would generate $20 million, which could be redirected to fund regenerative cotton initiatives or textile recycling projects in the Global South.
This model is not just about reducing emissions and waste; it is about systemic change. By capping production and redistributing financial penalties toward climate solutions, we transition fashion from an extractive, wasteful system to one that is regenerative and equitable. It also challenges the very pillars of the capitalist system that perpetuates infinite growth and inequality, embracing a necessary degrowth that prioritizes planetary boundaries and social justice over relentless expansion.
The time for half-measures is over. We cannot rely on voluntary commitments or consumer awareness alone to drive change. If we are serious about making fashion truly sustainable, we must confront the elephant in the room that is overproduction and implement bold, enforceable policies. The Fashion Commons Policy is a blueprint for such a transformation, one that places limits on corporate excess while ensuring that those most affected by fashion’s environmental and climate harm receive the resources they need to build a more just and sustainable future.
You can read Clara’s full proposal here.